원정 개요

Plans:

Acclimatization planned east to the col between Annapurna IV and III, on the Northwest Ridge of Annapurna 4, until an altitude of 6500m. Way to reckon descent route also.

Plan to climb the [SW] pillar in alpine style, trying to attack it left to the main ridge, whereas the Czechs in 2003 used the right side of it through rock slabs in loose rock.

This may be the second proper attempt of this esthetic pillar (quoted by Messner in "Big Walls") after 2003’s Czech one attempt up to 5700m (in 1998, Jiri Novak’s team didn't properly attempt to climb the pillar due to dangerous conditions).

Results:

Team arrived at BC on 26 Oct by helicopter.

29 Oct planned to go to 5500-5600m for first acclimatization round, but heavy snowfall on evening of 28 Oct twarted those plans.

Continuous snowfall keeps team at BC through 8 Nov.

Team made brief acclimatization climb, then returned to BC.

16 Nov team abandons climb due to bad conditions on S Wall and bad weather.