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Cesa Bianchi Makalu 1986

Makalu · 1986 · 가을 (3) · Italy

원정 개요

BC near Barun Pokhari (took son to BC)
ABC slightly north of glaciers' junction
C1 at beginning of steep section below Makalu La
C2 at Makalu La
C3 on NW Ridge on small col Messner's C3
High point at North Face.

Between making C2 and C3 was bad snowstorm and down to BC. Again in BC after C3 for resting and slow ascent by Cesa Bianchi and 1 Sherpa to C3. On 14th De Benedetti to C2 and next day down by ski from C2 to moraine on his first time in Himalaya. Cesa Bianchi turned down at 8000m after French expedition's Sherpas had taken his cooker for their own use at C3 on 13th and 14th, so too dangerous to go above 8000m without liquids and also had spent bad night of 13 and 14 Oct and furthermore Cesa Bianchi alone above 7800m for first time to be 8000m. Cesa Bianchi to BC on 16th and no further attempt possible. Problems of 13-14 Oct, strong winds beginning and time running out.


Vittorio Genna:

Stays now in KTM. Rescue helicopter flight to KTM because sickness.
Expedition returns 26 Oct; Genna goes home by 15 Oct.

  • 내부 원정 ID899
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA86303
  • 대장Cesare Cesa Bianchi
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Cesare Cesa BianchiItalyLeader---
Stefano De BenedettiItalyClimber---
Vittorio GennaItalyClimber---
Maria Christina MonetaItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Moro, Renato · 1986 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1986 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722501/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt · 1986 · 웹사이트 (5) ·