Himalaya Winter Expedition 1986-87 Himalchuli
Himalchuli East · 1986 · 겨울 (4) · Poland
원정 개요
BC west of Himalchuli NW Summit near source of Myagdi khola
C1A on West Ridge
C1B at 4800m below big wall well protected
C2 on top of meeting of West and South Ridge to-from SW Ridge
High point at plateau.
Moved C1 to slightly lower site because of strong wind at first site; tried to move it on 18th Dec, but "broken" weather then and succeeded on 21st; 500m fixed rope from C1 to C2 because S side of the W Ridge was difficult. Had big Christmas at BC and then up again and made C2. On 29th put 150m fixed rope above C2 and reached 6200m on top of 1st serac barrier and slept in C2. 30th Dec planned to rest and make C3 on 31st but weather not good (wind and cold) on 30th and started down; past C1 when accident [fatal fall] occurred on W Ridge very sharp ridge but really easy terrain. Klincewicz and Panejko were only climbers feeling well and with him gone, no partner for Panejko to climb with since Barancewicz and Trzeciakowski not high climbers.
- 내부 원정 ID898
- 원본 EXPIDHIME86401
- 대장Jozef Stepien
- 루트 (Route)W Ridge-SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6200m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)
참가자 7명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jozef Stepien | Poland | Leader | - | - | - |
| Wieslaw Panejko | Poland | Deputy Leader | - | - | - |
| Jacek Barancewicz | Poland | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Tadeusz Brys | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Jacek (Jerzy) Klincewicz | Poland | Climber | - | - | 사망 |
| Krzysztof Krolikowski | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Marek Trzeciakowski | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |