원정 개요

BC 03/10 5600m on Drolambau Glacier
Smt 06/10 by Nima Tenji, Dawa Gyalje, Tashi Sherpa at 11:30 am.

Team left BC for Takargo East at 6:30 am. It took them about 1-1/2 hours to get to the bottom of the climb over a heavily crevassed glacier. Glacier was mixed (dry and ice) and they had zigzag around the crevasses, especially near the bottom of the climb. The first 100m-stretch was a rock climb. Rock was pretty loose. At about 5800m they reached the snowy ridge, which they ascended moving on a rope together. The final ridge (northeast) featured five pinnacles, which they crossed underneath but had to stay pretty close as the snow was waist-deep lower down. Once they reached the summit ridge, they were knee-deep in the snow. A nice ramp led to a nice big summit. From the top they saw Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Makalu. They spent about 1-1/2 hours on the summit and descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:40 pm. They dismantled BC and hiked to the end of the glacier (5100m), where they arrived at 7:30 pm and pitched their tents for the night. They walked to Beding the following day and then back to Gonggar on 8 Oct. They used two porters for their gear to BC.