원정 개요

BC 09/09 5000m
ABC 12/09 5500m
Smt 15/09 by Larson, Waters.

From Beding the team walked to the small settlement of Na (4200m), from where they continued on the Trakarding Glacier to reach base camp (5000m). The walk to BC took four days; difficult terrain for the porters. Once they had established their BC, the weather turned bad and they were stuck for a few days. On 12 Sept they established ABC and on 13 Sept they did a reccie on the South Ridge, which they reached via the East Face of the mountain. When they had reached about 5700m the weather was too bad to carry on. They returned to ABC and tried again on 14 Sept. When they reached around 5900m, they decided that the route was too dangerous. Waters was climbing up a double-corniced ridge in very bad snow. Had they continued, they would have triggered avalanches. When they reached ABC Waters had a look at the north side of the mountain and thought that there might be a possibility on its NE Face, however, they still returned to BC.

On 15 Sept, they left BC at 1 am, climbed to ABC, put on their mountain gear and left ABC for their summit push at 3:30 am. They climbed up the glacier on the NE side, joined the ridge of Takargo East and then continued to the left. Climb was fairly easy. Would be a good mountain to ski.

Weather was good and they stayed about 1/2 hour on the summit from where they could see Everest and Lhotse. On their descent they stopped at ABC, packed it up and carried everything over to the Tashi Laptsa as they were going to cross this pass to get into the Khumbu. They then descended to BC.

On 16 Sept they left BC and crossed the Tashi Laptsa.

Team also held permit for Takargo East.