원정 개요

21 Oct: went to Ama Dablam base camp, then up to 5300m on the normal route and back to Pangboche.

22 Oct: went to an other place nearby Ama Dablam BC to sleep (4900m).

23 Oct: went to their BC below the SW Face of Ombigaichen at 5300m. Here, both found the face in too dangerous conditions, so preferred instead to try for a possibly unclimbed peak at 6420m lying further to the south.

24 Oct: went for further acclimatization at 5600m then back to BC.

25 Oct: Summmit day start at 1 am, summited at 11 am, via North Ridge from the west side up and down. Pictures and movies taken 30m below the top, having no battery left the summit (cold night).

Same day removed their 5300m BC to 4600m Ama Dablam BC (reached that last placed at 9 pm, both very tired).

North Ridge: apporoach on crevassed glacier covered with snow. Route like 700m high (5700m to summit), average slope 50 degrees with some steep 70-degree sections. Not much of a difficult route, but some exposure. Faced with crushed snow sometimes, in fact slabs, otherwise some deep snow sections.

No ascents of that peak now so far, likely a first ascent.

Found lots of bad moraines during approach march to ABC.

First experience of 6000m for Jorge. Angel already in Andes and in the Himalayas.