Steck Nuptse Expedition 2015
Nuptse · 2015 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland
원정 개요
Ueli shared his permit with French youngsters team (Helias Millerioux and Benoit Guigonnet), so both of those teams mixed together during the expedition time.
During their acclimatization, Ueli went to Chhukung Ri from Chhukung in 1:10 up and down (meaning 1000m/hr rhythm) and also on Lobuche East. Ueli also went on Cholatse's North Face (his first time there) with Tenji Sherpa, summiting on 7 Oct. Tenji is the first Sherpa to climb the North Face of Cholatse, which Ueli is very happy with.
On 17 Oct Ben and Ueli had some rock climbing block session.
On 21 Oct Ben went with Colin Haley on the Bonington route up to 6050m.
Meanwhile Helias went with Ueli and Kilian Jornet for a running session: starting from Chhukung at 7:30 am, they reached Amphu Lapcha La at 11 am then followed the SE Ridge of a 6230m peak (On Finn Map, located S of Imja Tsho Lake, NW of Amphu Lapcha La) reached at 1 pm.
On 23 Oct considering their low chances on their both objectives (new route for the French between "Are you experienced" and "Zorro (unclimbed) ridge," Babanov route for Ueli and Colin), all 4 members teamed up together for the Bonington route. Starting at 4:30 am from Chhukung, Ueli did the tracks all way long from the footstep of the face (others hardly managing to follow him behind) until they reached a bivouac place at 6900m at 2 pm (10:30 am for 220m positive).
Difficulty of the route like French grade D, similar to Jaeger/Macho couloirs of Mont Blanc du Tacul.
After a windy (50m/h) cold night, dealing with a very uncertain weather forecast, all members decided to go down. Ueli straight down climbing the whole route, others first hesitating to put abseils in the steepest section (only Ben did indeed put some when his 2 other mates chose to do like Ueli). "If we would have been just between us, we would have definitely put abseils" reports Millerioux. Same day all were back safely in Chhukung.
One day after, Ueli offered the helicopter to the both teams to go straight back to Kathmandu.
- 내부 원정 ID8960
- 원본 EXPIDNUPT15301
- 대장Ueli Steck
- 루트 (Route)S Face (Bonington rte)
- 최고 도달고도6900m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 2명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ueli Steck | Switzerland | Leader | - | - | - |
| Colin Child Haley | USA | Climber | - | - | - |