원정 개요

BC at usual site
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge
High point at NE Ridge.

Route not via N Col because this way very difficult with many crevasses so climbed slghtly west of col. After C2 established, very strong wind and snow almost waist deep with tents broken and supplies lost. 2 weeks of bad weather - then good weather and 2 summit attacks on 24th and 25th Dec by Chung and Sirdar Ang Dorje. On 24th to 7800mm and on 25th to 8025m, but then very strong winds and very cold so turned back; somewhat frostbitten so their climb finished.

Chung and Ang Dorje frostbitten fingers and toes on 25th. Kim worse frostbitten toes 7 and 8 Dec and then to BC and Marpha for rest of expedition (took 3 days to Marpha because of deep snow). Then 1 coolie got frostbite. No illness or accidents although one snow avalanche almost covered 3 members.

Ang Phurba said he was sick and returned KTM early but really left for some other reason.