원정 개요

BC 06/10 4020 (Na village)
ABC 14.10 5100m
HPt 15, 23/10 5800m, 6000m Bajde and Kramer
Smt 16/10 by Strazar and Mucic at 8 am.

Acclimatization all together on 5945m peak lying north of Chukyima Go (usual acclimatization peak). By the 500m NW Face snow ice ramp (average 50/60 degrees with some 80-degree bits), through right exit on the shoulder, then easy ridge north to summit in traverse. Back by the same route. Started from ABC, at 5/6 am, on top at around 12 am, back to ABC around 3 pm. Then at 7 pm to Na BC.

On Chukyima Go, 1st team of Strazar and Mucic summited by new route. Started from ABC on 15 Oct around 5 am, all day climbing. 16 Oct on top around 8 am, down to BC same day at 6 pm. [M5, 1 pitch. Water ice, grade 4 in ice. Like 800m, same difficult range from Kastelic route 2014].

2nd team of Bajde and Kramer attempted 2 other new routes.

15 Oct started also 5 am for right attempt up to 5800m approx. At noon at high point, then down in ABC at 4 pm. 60 to 80-degree snow and ice. Hard ice. Not so good conditions, with deep snow. Lots of spindrifts.

On 23 Oct new attempt by same descent route of 1st team (more on the left) up to around 6000m. Started 3 am from ABC, high point at 1 pm, returned to ABC at 4:30 pm. More ice on the this attempt, up to 80 degrees. More recommendable, no spindrifts, weather nicer, but more cold on their attempt day.