원정 개요

BC 28/09 5000m
C1 17/10 6100m
C2 18/10 6600m
Smt 19/10 by all 3 members.

Team acclimatized by summiting Hongku peak via the SW Ridge on 9 Oct from a previous bivouac at 6200m.

Checked during 2 weeks conditions on the North Face. Had a try on the east side of the face, after spending a night at 5500m on the 4 Oct the day after reached 6000m at an hanging glacier where they were stopped by bad weather and snow conditions.

After that just watched the western part of the face, but considering the apparent continous long difficulties of the route with no proper places for tents, didn't try anything. This despite also considering the route being not too much exposed to potential objective dangers (no hanging seracs there).

After 6 days of bad weather, the trio started to climb on the SW Ridge.

17 Oct: from base camp to C1 at 6100m. No difficulties.

18 Oct: roped all day to go on the sharp snowy ridge up to a second biv at 6600m.

19 Oct: after a night in not so good weather conditions, eventually decided to start at 8 am. Meeting some steep pitches, reached the top at 12:30 pm, then were back to sleep at their last camp at 2:30 pm.

2O Oct: all members went back to base camp, reaching it at 4 pm.