원정 개요

Approach: Lukla, Hinku Valley, Sutsaki La, Panggom, Cholem Kharka, Khote, Khare, Mera Peaks, Kongmedigma, Baruntse BC

BC 12/10 5450m
C1 20/10 6150m (just above W Col)
C2 25/10 6400m (just at small plateau on SE ridge)
HPt 27/10 6810m(GPS) Robert, Zac, Keith.

Climb abandoned on 28 Oct due to high wind (risk of frostbite)
Fixed rope: 270m until C1

Summited wrong and main peaks of Mera on 10 Oct. 3 peaks there most people go the central one, whereas they went on this one plus the real northern one, lying 600m further and 30m higher (2 hours to go and back from wrong top). Little bit exposed with little slab avalanching risk. Real summit for Zac, Bob Killip, Keith Scott. 4 others stopped at the wrong summit including Alan Coldwell (not on Baruntse permit).

Then they arrived at the empty Baruntse BC (other teams would arrive later). So did all the rope fixing work up to the West Col C1 on their own.

First tried to find a straighter route to the West Col broad face by a couloir. After 2 days fixing it, bad surprise came as it was impossible from its top to walk further right onto the snow, that one forming like a huge scoop.

Went back up to remove these ropes on 17 Oct. On that day on descent, Zac was almost killed by a big rock fall, lukily only cutting his head (bleeding). So instead they continued by the standard route, equipping it while descending.

Next day on 18 Oct, Zac flew to Lukla for some medical check, then flew back on the same day to the BC.

26 Oct Bob and Zac put some fixed rope up to 6600m.

27 Oct Bob, Zac, Keith tried for the summit. Facing strong wind (50 kh/hr during last 3 days) and knowing there was much distance remaining to the top, knew they could not make it without severe frostbite risk. Stopped at 6810m (GPS reading), then went back to C1.

28 Oct back to BC.

30 Oct left BC by Amphu Laptsa.

03 Nov back to Lukla.