원정 개요

BC 10/10 4590m
ABC 12/10 5400m
C1 12/10 5800m
HPt 12-14/20 5800m by R. Rogy, F. Reininger, L. Huebschmann, J. Roehr,
R. Hauer with Da Tenji Sherpa.

First the team went to acclimatize on Kyajo Ri SW Ridge normal route.

From Thami, they walked to Mende's monastery where they slept, then slept at 4550m BC. Then they slept at 5000m and at C2 at 5350m, both these days across a loose couloir. On summit day (6 Oct) they were faced with 150m rock grade 3, then a 500m snowy ridge (45/50 degrees steep maximum) to the top.

Hauer had to manage with all the rope fixing job. Sherpas being unable to help him, he had to fix alone, then down-climb to take back his ropes and so on. They should have been provided also with 700m of rope to equip the route safely, but they never had it.

All members with Da Tenji and Nima Tashi summited except Schrenk who was trekking around Mende's monastery.

Ama Dablam:

The entire team except Schrenk begun to climb the route on 12 Oct to ABC then C1 for deposits, but didn't sleep there. That day only Nima Tashi and Tashi Tshering pushed further to C2, then back to BC.

Sherpas decided they wouldn't fix the rope on the buttress between C2 and C3, arguing bad conditons. Rupert Hauer estimated (as for Kyajo Ri) that they did not have enough climbing skills and that their team hadn't been provided with enough rope to be fixed (1200m necessary, but were provided 800m only).

Due to the lack of personnel skills and also to unsecure appearing ice wall conditions above C3, Hauer decided to abandon the mountain on 13 Oct, went back up to C1 on 14 Oct to take back the equipment and would go next for Lobuche East instead.

Orywa, Huebschmann, Goebel and Schrenk left Ama Dablam back to Germany.

Lobuche East:

Sherpas claiming they had no insurances stopped at the wrong summit (according to Rupert Hauer, real summit is at 6119m whereas most teams stop at 6020m from which 2 French paragliders were seen taking off). All other members including leader summited on the real top that day.

Sherpas:
Da Tenji Sherpa, Gudel, Solukhumbu, 25/11/88
Nima Tashi Sherpa, Waku, Solukhumbu, 28/8/84
Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Khumjung, 5/10/82