원정 개요

BC at normal site
Biv1 at normal C1 site
Biv2 at normal C2 site on 2nd plateau
C3 at normal C3 site
C4 at normal C4 site
C5 at left of normal C5 site (300m left).

Weather changed 1st of Feb with cloud and snowfall.

20th Jan started up from BC 3 members and made camp at C3 site, slept there on 22 Jan, on 23rd up 100m and then down to BC because Wanda not well and snow conditions bad (much fresh loose snow) and weather changing. Slept 23rd in BC. 2 members made C2 at 5600m on 23rd after 1 night biv at 4900m while made C1. 27th 3 members to C1 joining (Wanda and Michel). 28th 4 members to C2 while Michel descended. 29th same 4 people to C3, 30th traversed into couloir on very dangerous difficult hard ice with snow avalanche carrying stones and ice down couloirs and biv at 6500m near couloir; that night tent broken by falling stones and 31st to C4.

1st Feb 2 members not fully acclimatized and down to BC while and 2 members [Kukuczka and Hajzer] up to C5 in snowfall and 30-40m visibility up very hard ice like glass. 2 Feb tired so postponed ascent till 3 Feb. On 2 Feb 40cm snow fell; stayed on C2 (higher up wind blew it away). 3rd Feb after 5 hrs cooking started for top at 7:00 am. 3rd Feb half-meter fresh snow 2000m below summit but high up snow did not stay. In desent very big problem: on 3rd Feb reached C5 at 10:00 pm because extreme difficult to see way, couldn't find traverse for some time on 4th Feb, but did follow route eventually; slept in C3 on 4th and BC on 5th.

2 members [Wanda and Wielicki] up from BC 6th Feb; to C4 on 8th Feb, but on 9th down again because of bad weather and Wanda not feeling strong. 10th Feb all in BC and climb finished.