원정 개요

Approach: Besisahar, Dharapani, Bimthang, Saipudonda Glacier, Larkya La, Athahra Saya Khola.

This new route over Hindu Himal east slope is the easiest way to go to the glacier plateau and to Panbari.

The base camp is accessible with horses from Samdo for a long day.

The snow slopes from ABC to C2 are also easy, with very few crevasses. There are other possibilities to build camp on the way.

We climbed the 3 summits on the way to Panbari to avoid the crossing of the snow plateau and to stay on a ridge with less deep snow. All are easy snow summits.

About the summits climbed:

1. Hindu Himal at 6306m is the summit of the ridge and its a big dome which give access to the plateau. We traverse Hindu Himal from east side to north.

2. Lilia Peak at 6425m, is the middle summit of a group of mountains called Tinbai by the locals of Samdo. We traversed Lilia peak from the South Ridge to the West Ridge.

3. Athahra Saya Khola Himal (Phu Khang Go) at 6767m, is a virgin snow summit on the Chinese border and the highest of Tinbai Himal. We climbed the East Ridge [to the top at 14:30] and came back the same way.