원정 개요

From website of Mountain Expeditions:
http://www.mountain-expeditions.co.uk/nepalunclimbedion-report-pxr/

Itinerary:
18/10- Flew to Lukla, walked to Namche Bazaar (3400m)
19/10- to Kyangjuma (3600m), via Everest hotel (3900m)
20/10- to Pangboche (4000m)
21/10- to Dingboche (4400m), acclimatisation walk to 5100m on hill west of town
22/10- 2nd night in Dingboche, acclimatisation walk to Chukung Ri, 5550m
23/10- to Lobuche (4800m)
24/10- Rest day in Lobuche; reccied route to Lobuche high camp
25/10- to Lobuche East high camp (5400m)
26/10- Summited Lobuche (6100m) and back to Lobuche village
27/10- to Zongla (4800m)
28/10- over Cho La pass (5300m) and to Kangchung BC (5250m); reccied Kangchung
East Ridge and stashed gear at 5500m
29/10- Heavy snow, retreated down to Dragnang (4700m)
30/10- Snowing - stayed at Dragnang
31/10- Weather clearing, walked to Gokyo for lunch (4800m) and returned to
Dragnang
01/11- Rest day at Dragnang waiting for snow to settle
02/11- Walked up to Kangchung BC, retrieved gear from East Ridge stash and
moved to below West Ridge
03/11- Attempted Kangchung; turned back at 5750m due to poor snow conditions
and illness in team; returned to Dragnag
04/11- Walked to Gokyo (4800m)
05/11- Rest day in Gokyo
06/11- Walked to Machermo (4400m)
07/11- Reccied North Ridge of Kyajo Ri
08/11- Rest day
09/11- Packed and prepared for attempt
10/11- Walk to basecamp at base of Kyajo Ri
11/11- Climb to camp 1 at 5800m on North Face
12/11- Continue climbing the face to the ridge 5900m; descended back to Machermo
13/11- Rest day
14/11- Rest day
15/11- Ice climbing (Looked at gully)
16/11- Ice climbing
17/11- Ice climbing
18/11- Machermo to Namche
19/11- Namche to Lukla
20/11- Lukla to Kathmandu

Kangshung, 6068m

We had hoped to attempt Chhuphu, an as far as we are aware unclimbed peak in the Thame valley. With issues in Kathmandu it became apparent that it would not be easy for us to gain a permit for this, so we sought an alternative objective. Richard at the Himalayan Database tipped us off about an "unclimbed" peak, Kangchung, located to the northwest of the Cho La Pass. The peak was opened for climbing by the Nepali Government in 2014, as part of the 104 new peaks released.

Richard let us know that two permits had been issued for the peak in the previous year, and through Iswari we contacted the agents who arranged the permits and discovered that neither team had been successful. After searching the Himalayan Index and the internet, and finding no records of attempts, we decided to attempt to make an ascent.

We initially recced that East Ridge of the mountain, which appeared to be fairly chossy, but worth an attempt. Unseasonal snowfall then made the slabby rock presented by this aspect of the mountain unattractive. We also looked at the North Face from the col on the Northeast Ridge, but this looked to consist of steep chossy slabs.


Will traversing across snow slopes after the ramp

Upon returning to the mountain after the storm we attempted the snowy West Ridge, but were turned around by sugary unconsolidated snow on steep ice/neve, giving dangerous conditions. The glacier that approaches the col to the west looked to be in tricky condition, so we avoided this by climbing a scree/snow ramp on the SW flank of the mountain. To access the col, traverse left at the top of the ramp.

We saw numerous signs of the passage of previous climbers on the mountain, including cairns and old water bottles. We have subsequently heard of three ascents by the West Ridge (all without permits), and one attempt on a route from the glacier to the north.

Late 80's - "Phil" soloed the West Ridge, finding easy snow slopes.

2006 - Local guide and lodge owner from Dragnag climbed the West Ridge, apparently finding it very straightforward.

2013- An acquaintance of Jon's summited from the west.

2014- A Czech team were rescued by helicopter whilst attempting to climb from the north side of the mountain.

A note to future potential ascentionists - the rock on this peak appears to be of poor quality.