원정 개요

BC at Imja moraine glacier below Paresshaye Gyab
ABC at east end of moraine where rocks stop and ice begins
C1 at NW Face's pillar
C2 at top of NW Face's pillar
C3 at North Ridge.

Pillar on NW Face used to avoid avalanches from 5650m - pillar stops at 6200m. From there up NW Face itself to North Ridge at 6700m. From C3 both Italians and Urubko at 8:00 am and up North Ridge to peak named Kali Himal (after called Baruntse North Peak). At this 7057m peak at 10:30-10:45 am (very cold and windy); back to C3 to sleep. 5th May descended to Col at 6190m between Kali Himal and Numri, then down rappelling to join descent route's pillar of Kali Himal and down ascent route to BC at 8:30 (Moro) and other 2 at 9:30 pm. This team's ascent is new route on NW Face and 2550m of zigzagging across face. Descent route same at Dutch in 1983, who said they had been on West Face of Baruntse.

In spring 1994, a Czech team lead by Martin Otta climbed a similar route on the NW Face closer to the West Col at the start of the climb before intersecting with Moro's route below the North Ridge.


Kali Himal or Baruntse North by Simone Moro - 12 May 2004

It had been difficult, very... but at the end using all our capacities and resistance we reached our objective. The North Face [NW Face] of Kali Himal or Baruntse Nord is really big, vertical, dangerous and impressive. It was virgin and unclimbed and only the ices of the trekkers and climber had been dreamed a climb on that wall after looking the mountain.

We knew that we have to use all our capacities and strength to have success on that face.

And it happened... We struggled four days and nights against wind, cold, mix climb, ice and rock. We had bivy 4 days in three people in a tent of two.... We never finded place to set it good and only our legs hanging in the void.

Ice screws, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts had been used to climb the complicated wall, but the real struggle had been against the wind and cold. We get 35m/sec (120 km/h) wind during all he climb and also on the summit!!!

We had been very happy to reach the summit through this new and first route and we spend 12 hours to come down from the mountain rapelling on a single ice screw for 20 times...

The name of the route is "Ciao Patrick" because we dedicated the climb to Patrick Berault recently dead. It was our friend and mythus.