원정 개요

BC at Imja Glacier at place yaks could reach (near "j" for BC-ABC near "c" on
Khumbu map).

One group climbed the 7057m North Summit and one group climbed the 7066m Central Summit. None attempted the 7129m Main Summit.

9 April one party (Oh, Ryu and Pasang Sherpa) to N Summit (7057m) while other party (Chang, Chung, Sirdar Lhakpa Gyalgen and Pasang Dawa) to Central Summit (7066m). Both parties returned to C2 same day (started from C3). 1 hour longer to reach Central Peak than N Peak. Not to Main Summit because of route difficulty and Sherpas not carrying above C1 (too occupied with fixed ropes). Had thought in Korea to go only to N Summit but found they were able with same supplies to reach Central Summit also. Farthest point reached was 2 hours beyond Central Peak (but at lower altitude) towards Main Peak.

Ridge is terrible ridge. C2 to C3 very steep mixed snow, ice and rock needing fixed rope (not sharp). To Main Summit from Central Summit were very big deep crevasses and big altitude difference up 65 degrees slope on hard ice requiring 800m fixed rope and lots of ice pitons. 7 more days needed to Main Summit.

Ice and rock falls hit several members (broke 1 man's helmet) on terrible route between C1 and C2 which had nearly constantly falling ice and rock. 1 man had frostbitten toes that will heal.


Banskota, Tourism - 29 March 1984

BC 5100m 23 March. 3 members left BC for Thyangboche due to headache and others left for Thyangboche 23 March; plan return BC 24 March and start climb on 26 March.