원정 개요

BC at site Pangpema - normal site
C1 at Kangchenjunga Glacier (temporary camp)
C2 at normal site above 1st icefall
C3 above 1st ice cliff (no debris of earlier camps seen)
C4 at North Ridge just before steep section with a snow rope ("bottom of the castle")
High point at North Ridge.

Fixed rope from C3 to North Ridge and down to BC for rest - 1-6 Oct. Trimble and Van Gelder up again on 7th to C2, 8th C3 and 9th to C4 on ridge having overcome all difficulties. 10th up ridge few hundred more meters when Trimble got altitude sickness and turned down for 5 days at BC before trying again beginning on 17th, but on 17th weather looked bad and was for 48 hours 18-19th. Up again on 21st and got to C2 at 8:00 pm, spent 3 hours digging out sleeping bags and took whole next day to dig out C2. 23rd up towards C3 in very deep snow and found avalanche had wiped all ropes on ice cliff and this last straw. Didn't have the equipment to fix new lines. Now 5 days of very high wind had come and not safe in cold and wind.

Did tests on viscosity of blood and changes that take place with altitude which shows blood definitely does thicken; tested drug that thins blood effectively.

Found G. O. Dyhrenfurth's ice axe and remains of his Sherpas who died in avalanche (pre-war clothing and small bones).


Letter from Norman Dyhrenfurth - 25 Nov 1987

Chettan was crushed by a huge ice avalanche on May 8, 1930, and after more than an hour of artificial respiration he was buried near C2. My father's old ice-axe was indeed placed on his grave! Perhaps a recent avalanche brought his remains to the surface, and broke the ice axe as well. What a strong coincidence! I certainly look forward to receiving the two pieces. Knowing of no other climber climber killed at that place, it certainly must be Chettan.