원정 개요

BC at 4800m at NW of Beding and east of Ramdung Tolung
C1 at 5600m at under rock face - just NW
C2 at 6314m top of Tseringma
C3 at 6350m on face of S Summit
Biv at 6600m on S Summit plateau (biv here after going to summit)
High point at 7010m at S Summit.

Climbed only to South Summit.

Planned to make temporary C4 under final face on south side of South Summit but could not make it because very bad storm from 8 Oct for a weak, so went to South Summit in two bivouacs. On 20 Oct Saito and 3 other Japanese from C2 to BC while other South Summiters stay C3. 21 Oct all other summiters to BC and climbing finished because time finished, must go back to work in Japan. To reach Main summit would need 4 more days alpine style. Most difficult part: between BC and C2 not so difficult but near C3 called ridge "hell traverse" because was narrow saw tooth with mixed rock, soft snow and ice on its face. Total 8000m fixed rope.

Some avalanches came down 7-9 Oct, but no one hit (fell across route about BC) but took out some fixed rope. Hamatani altitude sickness and left BC 4 Sept. Yuasa left BC 22 Sept with Hamatami after Hamatani had returned to expedition and again gotten sick.