원정 개요

BC 10/09 3665m at Dharmasala
ABC 11/09 4700m above the glacier between Thulagi and Pharpi
C1 16/09 5000m
C2 17/09 5700m
C3 24/09 6700m (biv)
Smt 26/09 by Gukov, Dozhdev, Shamalo and Kirichenko at 3:50 pm.

On 13 September the team started opening the route. When they reached 5000m, the weather became bad and they descended to 4700m where they spent the night. On 14 September they took their climbing gear and tent to 5250m and returned to BC. On 16 September they spent night at 5000m. Next day 17 September the team spent night at 5700m. On 18 September the team moved its camp to 5800m from 5700m and returned BC.

The summit push started from BC on 21 September and they slept at 5100m at the beginning of glacier.

On 22 September the team went to ABC and found that the tent was destroyed by avalanche. They found it 20m below. The climbing gear was intact inside the damaged tent, but the ice bars which were outside the tent were missing. They started looking for the missing ice bars which they found only 2 out of 5 bars.

On 24 September route making started on West Face. They reached 6700m at 7 pm on NW Ridge and dug a cave to sleep. On 25 September they started at 8 am and reached the summit at 3:50 pm. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. The summit ridge was sharp. The team descended to 6700m and slept there. Weather was very good. On 26 September they bivied in at 5100m and on 27 September went down to BC.

Good weather on 24, 25 and 26 September, rest of days snowfall, rain and foggy.

West Face 60-degree ice wall and three pitches of rock face at 6500m about 100m vertical.

NW Ridge plenty of snow, 50m ice fall in route and rest of route snow and not steep.

The team arrived Kathmandu on 5 September stayed at Khangsar Guest House and left for the mountain on 8 Sept by vehicle.

Fixed rope: 1700m from 5800m to summit.