원정 개요

BC at normal BC site (same as Belgians and Australians)
C1 at top of 3rd of 3 Steps
C2 1/3 way up 2nd Icefall
C3 at top of 2nd Icefall
C4 on shelf upper end of Great Shelf
High point on South Face.

Quite a bit of bad weather in early Sept. Alpine-style above C2 with cache at 7000m. Had intended to put 7200m but that would have been too far above C2. Started summit bid from BC 7 Oct and snow had eliminated C1. Oct 9 to C3, Oct 10th made C4. 11th Ongchu Sherpa, Farkas and Narayan Shrestha left for top while King stayed in camp since wind had taken way her down jacket. Stopped by bad snow conditions and crevasses before reached Austrian-German couloir and turned back at about 7900m and slept at C4. 12 Oct Farkas and Narayan again towards summit by new route directly up South Face (right of 1984 and Polish-Spanish climb) and got to 8100m. Farkas fell about 300m bouncing down South Face and climb finished. Fall did no damage but sometime during these attempts Farkas got frostbite in fingers and toes and possibly will lose tips of these. Took long time for him to get down and they stuck on mountain when began snowing on 15th and now food almost gone because 3 weeks supply stolen before reached BC. Stuck in Belgiums C1 tent 15th and arrived at BC 20th (had waited 2 days for snow to settle).

Smith brothers and Welch left 5 Oct out of boredom. Did go briefly to C1 but not climbers.