원정 개요

BC at north right bank of Jannu Glacier
C1 at 5600m top of first pillar under N face
C2 at cave (not on NZ route but near rock wall right of NZ route).

First tried new route to right of New Zealand route on North Face direct to top. On 6th Oct started summit push from BC and on 8th passed 2nd serac above cave and reached 6800m, then down because "that was enough" (one tired, one sick) risk of frostbite when tired.

After that changed route to try New Zealand route and Beghin and Decamp upon 21st to C1, 22nd biv at 6300m above Wall of Shadows, 23rd 6800m in crevasse below big snow slopes leading to ridge, 24th to biv on ridge at 7300m and 25th summit at 12:00 noon. Few steps on ridge, not difficult but must be very careful. Back to same biv and 26th to C1. 24th had lot wind and was quite cold. Alpine-style ascent from C1 in final summit push on altered route.


Marsigny - 28 Oct 87

Attempt of central route N Face reached 6800m 11 Oct by Eric Decamp, Pierre Beghin, Marsigny.

Fixed rope to 6300m to C2 (1st ice cave)
Made 3 camps, 2 in ice cave
3 nights at C3 6600m
Very cold so down to C2
On 11th and to BC 12th
Pierre Beghin and Decamp want to try Dutch route (NZ route)
(left BC 18 Oct wth 2 Dutch) - stay KTM to 4 Nov.