원정 개요

BC near junction of glaciers
C1 at Chago Glacier east of Central Spur
C2 just below last steep section of glacier below col
C3 just below Makalu Col.

After C2 established, down for rest and not all to C2 so far (not necessary to make C3 of no one to C2). Deposit placed at 7500m before camp established and fixed 1000m rope from C2 to C3 (200m above C2 to 200m below 3) for clients, more than normally would put. Started up from C3 on 18th Oct to make C4 but too windy and turned back; impossible to stand up.

American and Canadian members got only to 7000m (all got to C2). Fauquet down to BC to set out problem with Austrians who insisted on comming on same route. Now bad snowstorm arrived 19th Oct. Pivot, American and Crosett in C1 during storm and descended on 21st Oct (Americans) and 22nd (Mike with shovels). Stayed in BC one day and made track to go up and reached C1 while Makalu II came down. Again up to C2 on 25th but couldn't find C2 because of avalanche: after 2 hrs probing found one tent under 180m of snow. 26th found 2 more tents and Sherpas came and cleared same rope and oxygen. Descended again while Sherpas up to C3 26th clear camp, which found completely broken.