원정 개요

BC on two glaciers' junction
C1 on normal route.

Team first began on normal route for acclimatization before going to W Pillar route (their permit route). French-American team arrived (route permit holders) and demanded Austrians vacate route. After big snowstorm, Austrians abandoned climb not wishing to attemp pillar route with so much snow.

Planned to go to SE Ridge but Swiss had its permit so interested in W Pillar and to do this acclimatize by going on normal route; also go to Makalu La to observe conditions. 13th Oct went to 6500m on normal route (normal C2) and pitched one tent as acclimatization camp and slept one night. 14th French-US team arrived and sent them off their route. Studer froze his feet in climb to 6500m and left. 17th again up to 6500m by Friedl and Marte and heavy snowfall started. Brought down tent on 18th and big storm continued so 20th left BC to return to KTM. Strong winds started up now also on 18th and these would make W Pillar climb impossible immediately and wanted to take no risk.

Studer & Morik (who did not climb) left BC 17th Oct.


Studer - 27 Oct 87

Rudi Mayerhofer = acting leader of Makalu, at Shakti.

Studer in KTM 5 days now; some frostbite in toes; leaves Nepal 29 Oct.
Rest of expedition should arrive KTM 28 or 29 Oct, but snow conditions doubtlessly means delay.

Report 4 dead on Makalu probably French-US team - ministry has garbled report.