원정 개요

BC at Shershon
C1 at new high Makalu BC
High point at 6240m.

Lost much time waiting for doctor to arrive at BC, which he never did because very ill; he almost died at Nun and this was shock. Doctor reached Nun and then developed high fever for which he took so many pills that his liver stopped functioning and survived only thanks to a trekking doctor.

Made 2 recces of icefall of Lower Barun Glacier but too dangerous to go through it and decided not to take risk and changed route. Placed high camp near normal site for Makalu high BC. Stayed there 3 days to see if their help needed by Poles on Makalu and did some recce of way to S Ridge to highest point reached in series of recces from high camp. Gave up because hearts weren't in climbing with their doctor's illness, Makalu casualties and winds very strong.