원정 개요

BC at Tangmar, yak porters between Shershan and Barun Pokhari
C1 at small lake north of Barun Pokhari
C2 between 2 rock ridges on glacier (south of summit)
C3 just below S Col.

After C3 established, some snowfall and change of season. All resting at BC several days. Then climbing above C4 snow in place knee deep, some steepness, very windy. 7 days to open route above C3 to 7000m really easy area but snow slowed progress with winds blowing away the track every day. From 7000m up more difficult with small couloirs and rock. Technically more difficult but less snow on steeper area, so easier to move. On 16 Oct deposited food and rope at C4 site but then decided to quit: team tired, very cold and windy, long way still to go. Perhaps on fast alpine-style attack could have succeeded. All members reached C3 and 6 worked on route above C3, but morale not good by mid-October.