원정 개요

Translated by Google from Slovenian website blog:
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/112500/

Makalu 2014

The aim was to climb the normal route on Makalu (8481 m), in addition, they also had research objectives: ECG changes in height; Changes in tissue oxygenation with the level and impact of acclimatization; Comparison of scale glaciation of the southern wall of Makalu and surrounding peaks by comparing photos of 4 the Yugoslav expedition to Makalu in 1972 and the current situation.

After completion of the formalities in Kathmandu on 8 September we fly to Tumlingtar and on the same day by all-terrain vehicles continued to the village of Num (1500m). On the approach to the base joined us yet Vojka Gorjup, Marjan Harjac and Matej Blatnik.

This was followed by the seven-day hike to the base of the south face of Makalu at an altitude of 4850 meters. All the time we were accompanied by monsoon rains and - albeit extremely picturesque landscape - has always been shrouded in fog and clouds.

The database is followed by a couple living acclimatization and research work.
18 September we continue to ABC (5700m), respectively. the current base camp for a normal approach to the mountain.

After a few days of rest we started to approach the mountain. 21 September we set up camp 1 (6200m). Promotion is hampered deep Layers of compressed snow and unstable weather.

Camp 2 (6800m) was set up until 2 October.

On 3 October, we are in the base camp joined by some members of the other two expeditions, which are also intended to try the normal direction.

In autumn, in addition to us to try to mount two elimination of both in order to climb the south-east ridge.

In an attempt to approach the camp 3 we were stopped on 5 October high snow, landslides and strong winds; We have reached a height of 7100 meters.

Re-attempt the ascent is stopped forecast bad weather with heavy snow (cyclone Hudhud), before which we quickly re-ascend to camp 2 and all the amenities retreated back to camp first

This was followed by a week of waiting in the database. Overdue about 30 inches of snow, strong was cooled and the wind strengthened. Temperatures in the database (tent) at night dropped to -15 ° C during the day and also remained below freezing.

15 October is due to work commitments eliminate left Thomas. Mojca Irena and I decided to try again in collaboration with members of the other two expeditions. (Members of these expeditions because of the cold and bad snow conditions to achieve one camp and finally decided to descend ...).

On 19 October, we reached T1 and the rest of the day spent on the rescue equipment from buried and destroyed the tent. The next day we continued in T2.

In the following days we tried to climb to T3, but we were on 22 October the two of us decided to descend due to the severe cold, wind, adverse snow conditions. This day we also returned to base.

On 24 October we have planned descent into the valley.

In the early hours of the morning (ok. 7h) on 23 October, the Irena became ill with symptoms of breathlessness and gradual loss of vision. The health situation has deteriorated rapidly, until the disturbance of consciousness that occurred within a few hours.

Luckily, the weather allowing helicopter rescue. Irene was transported first to Lukla, where after initial care doctor estimated that will require treatment in a hospital in Kathmandu.

Upon arrival at the hospital (at 14h) it has been extremely critical condition (not measurable arterial pressure, low heart rate, non-reactive Zenica). After a few minutes, the revival has been accepted by the intensive care unit, where they continued the treatment of severe metabolic acidosis and multi-organ failure.

The first signs of awakening has started to show only in the night. In the intensive care unit he remained for three days and then the treatment continued for four days at the normal ward. In a lot of luck, the health status of good repair; only the result remained loss of vision in both eyes.

The reason health problems, even after numerous tests in a hospital in Kathmandu and Slovenia is not yet entirely clear. Nepali doctors have concluded that it was a high altitude cerebral edema, which is having a good acclimatization and descent of 1400 meters the day before the event is unlikely. Another possibility is that the problems were a result of metabolic disorders.

The happy end health issues are a decisive factor: fast response Nepalese agency Seven Summits by activating helicopter rescue (Mingma Sherpa), the organization of Global Rescue, who took care to organize and cover the cost of solving the Kathmandu team and hospital Vayodha.

On this occasion, to intervene in Nepal would like to thank the Alpine Association of Slovenia.

Thomas Goslar, Irena Mrak, Mojca Švajger