원정 개요

BC at high BC
C2 at Chago Glacier
C3 at Makalu La
C4 on North Face very near NW Ridge.

Kukuczka rib is good for one push, but with much snow this not possible. C4 were tents of Spanish and British. After C4 on 3rd Oct down in very strong winds which destroyed C2 and C3. Waited for winds to abate and had to replace camps. Winds low 12 and 13 Oct.

2nd summit team started up from BC on 9th Oct and reached C2 on 10th. 11th one decided to descend because sick from heptitis so he descended while other 2 men up to C3. 13th to C4 and 14th to top. Kolakowski seen by his headlamp at 8:00 pm near summit (within 50m of top), then disappeared. Kopys waited for him at C4 till 12:00 noon 15th; wind now very strong and white-out during night so chances of survival very slim.

3rd team in C3 could not leave tent because wind so strong on 16th (Kopys had gone to C1 on 15th). 16th 3rd party went down at noon; could not go up because terrible wind (in 3rd party were Kacuga, Kaploniak and Skierski).