원정 개요

BC at normal site of higher BC
C1 at normal route/6500m bottom of West Face
C3 at Makalu La.

Patscheider made brief attempt to climb W Face but never actually was on face. Eitel party on normal route from northwest side without success. 2 Mexicans on normal route; Carsolio summited. Troillet and Loretan attempted W Pillar.

Troillet and Loretan's climbing:
Arrived at BC 7th Oct.
9th to 6200m on small peak above BC.
10th to below W Face and climbed couloir to east side of W Pillar and 6700m.
11th to 7200m on pillar to see conditions and down to BC; snow conditions OK
on pillar but winds slab on W Face made it unsafe.
12th to C1 to bring down Carsolio and returned to BC at night.
BC rested and 17th up to couloir to 6700m for 4 hrs. and up again at 5:00 pm;
reached 7100m on pillar, retreated in strong wind and BC that midnight.
18th onwards was strong wind everyday so on 22nd gave up and left BC 24th
when porters arrived.

Patschnieder to only 6800m at big crevasse at bottom of face; did not actually climb on face.

Elsa and Carlos Carsolio together:

Climbed point 6170m for acclimatization and spent night on summit (7th Sept). 11th Sept started up Kukuczka route and climbed to 7000m and slept there 2 nights (12-13th Sept) still for acclimatization. Snowfall and poor weather next and rumor there would be another earthquake.

25th Sept started from high BC at 5300m in first summit bid; climbed normal route; 1 night in C1, 1 in C2 and C4 on 28th Sept made bid for summit but very deep snow for breaking trail. Reached 8200m at 6:00 pm and returned to C4 and next day on down to BC rested, small snowfall and wind came and very difficult to climb.

2 Spaniards and 2 Mexicans 5th Oct started up again from BC. C1 with Walde. 6th in C2, very windy; Elsa 2 nights, Carlos 5 nights. 11th Oct Carlos up alone, direct to C4. 12th on up in very cold strong wind and reached summit at 7:00 pm, very cold on top. Returned to C4 that night (doesn't know time, too tired). 13th downwards, Spanish gave him oxygen in C2 and to BC same day.


Letter from Hans Eitel to Miss Hawley - 15 Oct 88

Report from the expedition.
High camp Base 5300m on 21 Sept 88.
Carlos Elsa Carsolio arrived the camp two weeks before Reinhard Patscheider started the climb on West Face solo.

26 Sep 88 - Kurt Walde, Claudia, Hans Eitel, Ang Gyalzen Sherpa, depot on 5800m.

28 Sep 88 - Claudia Inceichen, Hans Eitel, C1 6400m.
Reinhard Patscheider west face C1 tent on serac, Kurt Walde, N/W C2.

30 Sep 88 - Claudia Inceichen, Hans Eitel, Ang Gyalzen Sherpa C1 the next day Hans Eitel Camp 2 7000m solo and from C2 back to base camp. Claudia Inceichen and Ang Gyalzen from C1 to base camp back. Carlos and Elsa came back from 8200m.

From now we have many wind from Makalu La to the top of the mountain.
Reinhard Pattscheider solo on West Face 7000m, he finished, so E. Loretan and Jean Troillet not coming.

6 Oct 88 - Reinhard Patscheider started from BC back to KTM. All climbers must wait for better weather. The problem is now only the wind. Carlos, Elsa start again to the mountain.

7 Oct 88 - Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet arrived the BC with 5 porters.
He brings the message I must go home.

8 Oct 88 - Hans Eitel started with 1 porter to Tumlingtar.