원정 개요

BC at east of Charchang.

1st attempt via W Face: biv at 17,500 ft at top moraine on 6th Oct. 7th onto glacier to 18,000 ft biv, 8th to 19,500 ft on W Face, 9th to 500 ft below summit when getting late and climb ahead looked difficult and all slightly sick (all 4 men to just above top biv; all but Parker to high point on this push) and returned to high biv. 11th all in BC.

Walters and Selters went on up onto NW Ridge starting on 18th with biv (at col SE of Pt 5677) at 18,500 ft; 19th on up to 100-150 ft below top on summit plateau above end of Ridge biv. 22nd to top and down W Face to 19,500 ft platform of 8th Oct and route had been prepared by earlier push; 23rd from 19,500 ft to BC.

24th Oct Collins and Parker up from BC to W Face route and bived at 17,500 ft; 25th to 20,000 ft biv; 26th to 20,200 ft and again Parker ill so down to BC.

1st push had completed W Face in a new route. W Face water ice, other route powder snow and lousy rock.