원정 개요

BC at north side (base) of Island Peak
C1 at top of 1st big rocks where glacier starts
C2 at 1st big icefall (at top of it) on SE Face
C3 on SE Face
C4 on SE Face
Biv at near point where SE Ridge meets SE Face (snowcave).

1st team [Jelk and Brigger on 20 Oct] turned back at 7500m because of strong wind.

2nd summit team of Imboden and Ferrari [on 24 Oct] to 8000m where ridge is flat but narrow; turned back because feared fog would come and prevent finding C5 on return.

4 days later Imboden and Willi made successful bid.

Technically not difficult but altitude problem and necessary to be extremely careful on such an exposed route; above C4 is very steep. "We had enough trouble getting to top of Lhotse Shar." Ridge to Lhotse is very dangerous and difficult cornices and towers at high altitude. No attempt to go to Lhotse or Lhotse Intermediate.

"Had same problem with Germans" who wanted to climb Swiss fixed ropes; "matter of too many" cause for refusal to let Germans on ropes.