원정 개요

BC 02/03 4100m
C1 05/03 5100m
C2 09/10 5600m
C3 22/03 6500m
C4 23/03 6750m
Smt 24/03 Shahlaee, Dejanovic, Dong, Irmak, Liu, Mansikka, Shahlaee, Zhang,
Mingma Gyalje, Nima Ongchu, Nima Gyalzen, Kaji, Angeli, Pemba
between 3:15 pm and 4 pm.

Team left C4 at 12:30 am. Weather was clear and calm. The first 300m of the climb had fixed rope; however, afterwards the team split in groups of 6 and 7 and moved on a main rope together. The ascent was straightforward and the group reached the summit between 3:15 pm and 4 pm. They stayed for about 15 minutes to take pictures.

On the descent they used three main ropes to abseil down, which with 13 people took quite some time. When they reached 7400m at about 11:30 pm on 24 March, they were all very tired and decided to wait for the sun to come up. Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa continued their descent, however, without a rope. Shahlaee saw the headlamps from his spot at 7400m, but all of a sudden at about 3 am they were gone. The assumption is that Pemba Sherpa took a fall, bumped into Mansikka and they both fell to their deaths. On 26 March a helicopter came to look for the bodies and could identify them an altitude of about 7100m. It was impossible to retrieve them.

The 11 team members and Sherpas, who rested at 7400m waited for the sun to rise and continued down at about 6 am. After many abseils, they reached C4 at 10 am. Everyone stayed C4 and continued on 26 March. Apart from Irmak and Ngima, who stayed at C2, everyone descended to BC where they arrived at 8 pm on 26 March. Irmak and Ngima reached BC on 27 March.

The Spanish doctor Carlos visited their camp and helped them for frostbite and bandaged them. On 28 March a helicopter came and picked up the team.

Oxygen:
Taken and used: from C4 to summit to C4 by Dejanovic, Dong, Irmak, Liu, Zhang,
Nima Gyalzen, Kaji, Ang Geli and Pemba
Not taken, not used: Shahlaee, Mansikka, Mingma Gyalje and Nima Ongchu did not
use oxygen

Sherpas:
Pemba Sherpa, 28/2/1980, Sankhuwasabha, Makalu-5
Mingma Gyalje, 14/4/86, Beding, Dolakha
Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/1985, Beding, Dolakha
Nima Ongchhu Sherpa, 15/12/2041, Solukhumbu, Chaurikharka-8
Kaji Sherpa, 15/2/2028, Sagarmatha, Solukhumbu, Tapting-9
Ang Geli Sherpa, 20/11/2043, Janakpur, Dolakha, Gaurishankar-6