원정 개요

Patrasi Expedition report:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/media/files/international/2014%20expeditions/2014-12-04%20Nepal%202014%20Expedition%20report%20FINAL%20(no%20numpties).pdf
Summary:

On the 13th of October 2014, this lightweight Anglo-Russian expedition, sponsored by the Alpine Club and the BMC, set off to the Upper Dolpo region of Nepal in order to attempt to climb the fifteen hundred meter north face of Patrasi (6450m) in the Kanjiroba Himal. Following a seven day approach (four with porters, three without) from Jumla by the Chaudhabise Khola via col 4942, a basecamp was established at roughly 4200m at the head of the Chyandayng Khola on the 24th of October and following reconnaissance, an attempt on the face made, despite snow conditions which may be inadequately described as horrific.

The attempt was subsequently aborted at around 5400m on the 30th of October on account of one of the expedition members acquiring mildly frostbitten toes. Following a five day rest and recovery period, the expedition made an exploratory retreat down the Chyandayng Khola to avoid exposing the toes to potential refreezing on col 4942. In the process, the unsuitability of this route for approaches and retreats to the north face of the mountain was confirmed. The expedition team followed the Mugu Karnali and arrived at Talchi airport on the 12th of November.

The expedition subsequently returned to the UK safely on the 17th of November as planned. With the exception of the unseasonal storm between 14th and 16th of October and moderate snowfall on the 25th and 26th of October, the weather was fair, with almost no cloud or precipitation. Snow conditions resembled something between Tian Shan summer and alpine winter. Most equipment, with the notable exception of footwear, exceeded expectation. Medical conditions suffered by expedition members included mild altitude sickness, frostnip, frostbite, generalised inflammation of the foot, local cuisine and really bad jokes.