원정 개요

BC nearly as same as Japanese on moraine on great side of South Annapurna Glacier.

Route was basically as same as Japanese in winter 1987 and then variation of British 1970 spring route. Weather was not good with snowfall everyday. Quite difficult wall between C2 and C4 with some steep, even vertical pitches of bad rock, which British climbed. Below this was big serac above couloir above C2 under which had to climb; had to fix rope quite high because of avalanche danger; fixed about 1400m total.

Dorotei, Rakoncaj and Boyer established C4 on 8th May and 3 others down to C3; Boyer to C3 next day. On 10th May, 3 French and Boyer started earlier and climbed through C4. Chamoux, Campredon and Boyer were on top within one hour of Dorotei and Rakoncaj (10-11 am), but Detry had been not well day before and turned back 100m from top when others coming down; he had 2 more hours to reach top but weather deteriorating. From C3 started at 11:45 pm on 9th and from C4 at 2:00 am on 10th. All six slept at C2 which was reached at 7 pm on 10th in descent.