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Czech Putha Hiunchuli Expedition 2014

Putha Hiunchuli · 2014 · 가을 (3) · Czech Republic

원정 개요

From Czech website (www.lezec.cz):

The Czechs on top of Putha Hiunchuli (7246m)

On the days of 24 and 26 Sept 2014 Antonín Belik and Pavel Matousek went from the north to the top of the Nepalese seven-thousand-meter peak Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII). Probably this is the first Czech summit.

Both were members of the expedition Putha Hiunchuli 2014 CZ, which had the objective to climb this mountain that is located in the massif of the crest of the Dhaulagiri. The other participants and the height attained: Jindrich Pospísil 5340m (Camp 1), Petr Kral 7000m, Olga Novakova 7100m and Sarka Jegrova (trekker in our expedition) 5200m (under Camp 1).

Olga and Pavel


From Czech website (www.vrcholeni.cz):

September 18, 2014

The long march, but finally, at 4 pm (after 8 and a half hours) come to BC, 4900 m. Total decent place. There are a few tents of a Japanese expedition (2 + accompaniment).

September 19-20, 2014

REST - Exploratory day. Usually in the evening thunderstorm and rains, but otherwise, especially in the morning the weather is nice. We pack up.

September 21, 2014

So let's go upstairs. Sarka accompany us until almost the C1 - 534 m. We build tents in a pile of mud, next to the glacier. It took us five hours, but we have enough.

September 22, 2014

Morning Jindra returns to BC, the other half of the 11 are coming along. Locally glaciers, sometimes after debris. Finally, at 18 o'clock on a rock next to a glacier at an altitude of 5720m build the C2. Very pleasant place.

September 23, 2014

So up again, this time purely glaciers. Trail and after a few shifts build C3 height 6200m. It is already showing problems with height and in the afternoon the weather deteriorates.

September 24, 2014

We start late, at 7 pm. It's an infinite distance. Tonda [Antonin] is the fastest and gradually escapes us. Tries and tries around 14:20 is at the top. It does not stay there very much and returns. Around 7000 meters Peter legs start to get tired and then returns. Olga still go a little higher. Tondu meet. The weather was pretty spoiled and increasingly freezing. Finally, we turn and go back to C3.

September 25, 2014

Morning Tonda and Peter (a little dark toes) go down. Originally we wanted to camp with Olga move higher, but the night was not good and Olga troubled health and we remain where we are.

September 26, 2014

We get up at 3, after 4 we start (still dark). Weather would have wished, but it freezes very, very strongly. Around noon, we are again at about 7000m. Olga is getting worse, and eventually with heavy heart stops and comes back. I continue. It does not have much height, but very, very far away. Only at 15:30 am at the top. It was a little spoiled by the weather, but they're still nice views. It is even seen Dhaulagiri (initially we thought it was II, but after clarification showed that alone I). Descent is quick (enough it breaks) and C3 come up in 18 hours. Waiting for me already quite nervous Olga - expected me earlier.

September 27, 2014

Olga descends to BC. It's a nuisance, but eventually we arrive in the evening. Along the way we meet a new great expedition of about 15 people and a correspondingly large (i.e., very numerous) accompaniment.

  • 내부 원정 ID8697
  • 원본 EXPIDPUTH14304
  • 대장Pavel Matousek
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face?
  • 최고 도달고도7246m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Pavel MatousekCzech RepublicLeader성공--
Antonin BelikCzech RepublicClimber성공--
Sarka JegrovaCzech RepublicMember---
Petr KralCzech RepublicClimber---
Olga NovakovaCzech RepublicClimber---
Jindrich PospisilCzech RepublicClimber---

출처·참고문헌

http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=11987 · 2014 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.vrcholeni.cz/index.php?clanek=14 · 2014 · 웹사이트 (5) ·