Snowy Horizon International Cho Oyu Expedition 2014
Cho Oyu · 2014 · 가을 (3) · Italy
원정 개요
The Snowy Horizon International Cho Oyu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Snowy Horizon Treks provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below where known:
Sonia Dandl (Germany)
Name: Sonia on Cho Oyu
Camps: BC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6400m),
C1.5(24/09,6900m),C2(30/09,7100m),xxx(01/10,7300m)
Left: 4/10/2014
Term: Abandoned at 7300m due to coldness
It was Dandl's summit push day, but she felt too cold and gave up further climbing.
Steffen Hirzel (Germany)
Name: No Oxygen Cho Oyu Expedition
Camps: CBC(09/09,4930m),IC(11/09,5330m),ABC(12/09,5640m),C1(17/09,6430m),
C2(19/09,7050m),Smt(28/09)
Left: 2/10/2014
Term: Success
Hirzel and Ang Dawa started from C2 at 1 am (CST) on 28 September and reached top at 12 noon (9:45 NST). They stayed on summit for 10 minutes, then went down to C2 where they arrived at 5:15 pm. Next day 29 September they reached ABC. Summit day weather was bit windy, but clear. There were four climbers ahead of Hirzel and behind were some Italians and others.
Oxygen:
Used only by Sherpa from 7900m to smt to 7900m
Sherpa:
Ang Dawa Sherpa, 18/11/84, Jubing-1
Manish Kumar Deka (India)
Name: Assam Cho Oyu Expedition
Camps: BC(09/09,5000m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5800m),C1(14/09,6200m),
C2(18/09,6800m),Smt(29/09)
Left: 3/10/2014
Hired: 1
Term: Success
Deka and Phurba Gyalje started their summit bid from C2 at 11 pm (IST) on 28 September. They got to the top at 6:50 am [7:05 am NST] on 29 September and stayed there for about 25 minutes. Then back to C2 where they arrived at 10:30 pm and spent night there. Next day 30 September, they went down to ABC. Ahead of Deka team there were about 5 climbers and behind about 18 climbers. The weather on summit day was a bit windy.
1st Assamese to summit Cho Oyu.
Oxygen:
Deka below C3–>Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.
Sherpa:
Phurba Gyalje Sherpa, 31/8/78, Makalu-9 (lives in Darjeeling)
Gustavo Mejia Mora (Mexico)
Arturo Guerra Gonzalez (Mexico)
Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5780m),C1(17/09,6400m),
C2(19/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
Left: 3/10/2014
Hired: 1
Term: Success
Guerra Gonzalez and Sherpa left for summit from C3 at midnight of 28 September. They got to the top at 7 am and stayed there for about 20 minutes. Then back to C3 at around 11:30 am. They rested for one hour and reached C2 around 5 pm and slept there. Next day 30 September, they went down to ABC.
Mejia Mora's high point was C2; he had cough and throat problem.
Oxygen: C3 up (stopped before two hours to summit)
Sherpa: ??
Gilles Larivee (Canada)
Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5600m),C1(17/09,6400m),
C2(27/09,7100m),C3(28/09,7400m),Smt(29/09)
Left: 3/10/2014
Term: Success
Larivee and Karna started their summit push from C3 at 2:30 am (CST) and got to the summit at 9:30 am (7:15 am NST). They stayed on summit between 15 to 20 minutes, then went down to C3 where they reached at 2:30 pm and slept there. Next day 30 September they stopped at C2 for lunch and went down to C1 to sleep. Following day they went down to ABC. Summit day weather was clear.
Oxygen:
Larivee used from C3->Smt->C3.
Karna used only for recovery inside the tent (did not use for climbing).
Sherpa:
Karna Tamang
Bogdan Velev (France)
Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5660m),C1(17/09,6200m),
C2(18/09,6800m),C3(28/09,7500m),Smt(29/09)
Left: 3/10/2014
Term: Success
Velev and Migma left C3 at 2 am of 29 September. They got to the summit at 7:15 am, stayed on summit for 45 minutes, then went down to C3 where they arrived at 10:30 am stayed there for one hour then went down to C1 at 4 pm. Next day 30 September descended to ABC. Lots of climbers summited on that day (between 30-40).
Oxygen:
Velev used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.
Sherpa:
[Mingma Tenzi]
Luca Montanari (Italy)
Massimiliano Colombo (Italy)
Luciano Dal Toe (Italy)
Samuele Santagiuliana (Italy)
Camps: CBC(08/09,4900m),IC(10/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(16/09,6400m),
C2(18/09,7150m),C3(28/09,7450m),Smt(29/09)
Left: 4/10/2014
Term: Success
Montanari and Funuru started their summit push from C3 at 3 am (NST) and got to the summit at 9 am. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, then went down to C3 where they reached at 1 pm; they rested for about half an hour and continued to ABC where they reached at 7:30 pm. About 15 climbers summated that day.
Rest of the members went up to 7450m. One member [Colombo] left expedition early.
Oxygen:
Montanari used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.
Sherpa:
Funuru
Robert Jedynak (Poland)
Camps: CBC(09/09,4900m),IC(11/09,5300m),ABC(12/09,5700m),C1(17/09,6400m),
C2(19/09,7050m),Smt(28/09)
Left: 2/10/2014
Term: Success
Jedynak and Lakpa Tashi left C3 at 2:30 am and got to the summit at 9 am, stayed on summit for about 15 minutes, then went down to C3 where they arrived at 11 am; they continued to C2 where they spent the night. Next day 29 Sept descended to ABC.
Oxygen:
Jedynak used from C3->Smt->C3; Sherpa did not use.
Sherpa:
Lhakpa Tashi, Yaphu-9, 25/9/85
- 내부 원정 ID8685
- 원본 EXPIDCHOY14315
- 대장Luca Montanari
- 루트 (Route)NW side
- 최고 도달고도8188m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 19명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Luca Renato Montanari | Italy | Leader | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Christopher Joseph Carlos | Philippines | Climber | - | - | - |
| Massimiliano Colombo | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Luciano Dal Toe | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Sonia Dandl | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Manish Kumar Deka | India | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Arturo Guerra Gonzalez | Mexico | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Steffen Andreas Hirzel | Germany | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Robert Marlusz Jedynak | Poland | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Gilles Rene Larivee | Canada | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Gustavo Ernesto Mejia Mora | Mexico | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Samuele Santagiuliana | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Bogdan Velev | France | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Ang Dawa Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Lhakpa Tashi Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Mingma Tenzi Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Phunuru (Funuru) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Phurba Gyalje/Gyalzen Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Karna Bahadur Tamang | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |