원정 개요

From RedFox website:

On October 20th, 2014 the members of the Zamberlan Expedition summited Ama Dablam in Nepal, via the classic southwest route. The expedition was undertaken to commemorate the 85th anniversary of the Zamberlan Outdoor company, makers of fine mountaineering boots.

Members of the expedition team included Marco Zamberlan, Vlad Moroz (Director of Red Fox), Vasily Voloshin (VP Sales at Red Fox), Caio Pellizzari, Michele Barbiero, and Stelvio Frigo. The expedition bid began October 3rd, with members reaching the summit October 20th.

Comments from Vasily Voloshin:

During the ascent the expedition divided. I (Vasily Voloshin), Vlad, Claudio and our guides Onchu and Dava reached the Camp 1 (5800m). Then, myself, Vlad, Dava and Onchu went on to the Camp 2. This is a rule that climb is done gradually: after an ascent a mountaineer should descend. We went up with a very high pace. We were trapped by possibility of bad weather, so we hurried. We climbed to 5800m. It was very difficult, because from the base camp at 4600 meters we had to climb to 5800 meters. We overcame 1 km 200m through a very steep trail with a heavy backpack. And then from 5800m to 6050m – this is a very big section where you should climb with a backpack on an almost vertical cliff with rocky sections 6a category of difficulty. It was a long queue on this section, we had to hang on the cliff and wait for our turn, it was cold. It was very hard section, so finally, when we came to Camp 2, I had a severe headache which lasted all night and next morning. We planned to pass this section in alpine style, so we went straight to the top. This short section of 250m we were climbing took almost the whole day. When we completed it was already dark. And at 1 am we should go further. I just physically could not move forward because I had a severe headache. I decided to go down to calm down my head, and then go up. And at the same time, our guide Onchu injured his shoulder and also could not go any further. Therefore Dava with Vlad went up at 2:30 am, and in the morning I and Onchu went down. I went down, and at one section my rope broke, and I was injured. That fate decided for me that I will no longer participate in the ascent. And Vlad with Dava climbed to the top.

Comments from Vlad Moroz:

The section from camp 2 to the top was very specific. Usually all expeditions start to go very early. Some people tried to start at 10 pm. We started at 2:30 am. All this section is overcame in dark with flashlights. And, of course, I was pleased that the guide walked side by side. He was going first, he knew where to go and lighted up the path. If my flashlight batteries became exhausted because of cold and it was a contingency for me. We should go almost by touch, the guide lighted up the way ahead. There are a lot of ropes hanging along the route. All of them are different, and some of them are entirely bad. But at night it is not visible. Soon the sun rose, so we didn't have any problems. And I went down early, when it was light, so I did not need a flashlight. All the others who went after us, went down in the dark. It was a very beautiful view at night: a slope, flashlights and then the stars. There are several quite dangerous places on this section. Some time earlier between the Camp 2 and the summit a Camp 3 existed. And this Camp 3 is situated under a big glacier. A few years ago this glacier fell down, and several persons were killed. Since that time Camp 3 is not done there. Along all the route there are rocky sections under the melting glaciers. They can fall down at any second. That's why these sections should be passed very quickly. Especially during the day, because ice melts. And in the night it's cold, and not so dangerous to go.