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Fukuoka University Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition 1988

Gyachung Kang · 1988 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

BC on north side of Ngozumba Kang Glacier (same as Koreans).

Joined French Spring 1986 route only at 7200m because of crevasse below, between C1 and C2. From C2 to C4 very steep and required fixed rope entire distance. 17th Oct summit attack by Ang Phurba, Baba and Kikuchi: started from C4 at 6 am; to 7800m easy climb because plenty of snow on rock and reached there at 12:15 pm; decided they should turned down because tired and Kikuchi planned to join 2nd attack party from C4 next day. Ang Phurba quickly reached C4 (1-1/2 hour). Baba probably reached traverse from C4, but now so cloudy no one there could see him; no fixed rope needed in easy couloir above C4. Kikuchi reached C4 10 mins after Baba was there and fell. 2nd attack party's Sherpas saw Baba falling below C4; he stopped falling near C2 near crevasse and was dead of broken head, etc. Now climbing stopped.


Tourism Ministry, 23 Oct 88

Mr Sinichi Baba, 1960, staff of Hare Co., Kiami Kokura Mihaki Saga of Japan, a climbing member of 11-member Nepal-Japan expedtion to Gyachungkang (7952m) reported to have slipped to death from 7300m on 17 October. He had started to climb to summit at 6 am that day but after reaching 7800m, turned back being very late and reaching near C4 at 7300m. Mr Baba slipped it is reported. Also reported, his body found near C2 (6300m) and his last rites completed there. Expedition being abandoned due to this accident. Leader of the expedition is Mr Uematsu Mitsuo, 1936, Fukuoka Hospital secretary.

  • 내부 원정 ID866
  • 원본 EXPIDGYAC88301
  • 대장Mitsuo Uematsu
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge-SW Pillar
  • 최고 도달고도7800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유사고 (6)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Mitsuo UematsuJapanLeader---
Mamoru KikuchiJapanClimbing Leader---
Shinichi BabaJapanClimber--사망
Hiroshi HanadaJapanClimber---
Hiroaki ShigmoriJapanClimber---
Michihiko ShimaJapanClimber---
Shigenobu SuematsuJapanClimber---
Toshiaki TakasuJapanExp Doctor---
Ang Phurba SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Guha, Kamal K. · 1988 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1988 · 잡지 (3) · MM
· 1988 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
· 1988 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920701/Asia-Nepal-Gyachung-Kang-Tragedy · 1988 · 웹사이트 (5) ·