원정 개요

The team now focused on an ascent of Pt 6589m [6478m on HMG-Finn map], which is south-southwest of the Lunag peaks, southwest of Jobo Rinjang's Pt 6777m and west-northwest of BC. For this climb, they pitched a new C1 south of the old C1 on the 17th. From the 17th to the 19th, they fixed 800m rope on this mountain also. They climbed 500m up a steep (60 degrees) snow couloir, then a 120-meters-high ice wall 80-degrees steep, next 80-85 degrees bare rock, and finally a snow ridge with cornices.

On 22 October the summit party left their new C1 at 2:00 am. They were Carrard, Haeni, Schaffter, Vallot and the two Sherpas. When they reached 6150m, it was very cold and the members decided to move quickly in alpine style, leaving the Sherpas to go back to BC while the members continued to the summit, where they arrived at 2:10 pm. Schaffter went down to C1 while the three other members descended to BC; Schaffter was in BC the next day after the others had joined him at C1 to retrieve the camp's gear.

[This ascent is disputed: see AAJ 88:64-71 (2014) and PANN-173-01.]

Sherpas:
Dawa Sherpa, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, no 8000ers
Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 26/10/69 (10/6/2026) according to his citizenship
certificate, Kanku, Everest X4