원정 개요

BC as same as Japanese near lake.

Route changed slightly from plan because Japanese already climbing this planned route. Very difficult above C3; very steep ice face with no proper space for C4. Fixed 3000m total, 2000m from C3 to top. Had planned summit push day after C4 established but too much difficult ice step-cutting. No other summit bid after 24th because supplies running out. Route between Japanese 1964 spring & French 1986 spring expeditions.


Expedition Report/Gyachung Kang (7952m) by Hwa-Seok Yang
Taken from Sanak in winter 1988

Daejeon Seil Club, the first summiter to Ngojumba Kang in 1982, again made a great achievement on SW Face of Gyachung Kang this time.

On Oct 2nd they advanced to C2 for 5 days and on 12th, C2 was secured at the foot of the Gyachung Kang Face.

Suddenly on Oct 17th, they saw a unfortunate Japanese climber falling down in his way of returning from SW Ridge leaving to the summit just 50m and they continued climbing with more indomitable spirit, so that they overcame the difficult route to fix the ropes. Especially toward C4, they had to climb up almost vertical face mixed with rock, snow and ice, which needed more time than expected. Consequently they could not find any suitable place for their camp after dark, and it was over 8:00 pm when they barely managed to sleep just in one tent blocked with ice. It was Oct 22. C4 was established at 7500m the next day.

On Oct 24th, member Yeon Heon-Mo and Shim Yeom-Bo started for the summit with Ang Rinji and Ang Dorji. After overcoming the mixed route with ice and snow (over 100m long), they arrived at the point connected from West Ridge to the summit. Due to very steep rock slope just below the summit, they had to make a detour of long and exhausted advances in the direction of Tibet, and after 5 hours and 20 minutes of struggles they finally reached the summit.