원정 개요

BC east of Kalapattar's high point
ABC at moraine at base of snow
C1 at col on SW Ridge where it breaks up into 2 ridges south of summit
C2 (biv) ice cave on SW Ridge
Biv summit snow slopes at top of ridge.

Climbed ice face on east side of SW Ridge; 80-degree water ice just below C2 (at 6700m). 2 summit teams left C2 at 6 am and 7 am on 10th Oct (C2 had no tents but sleeping bags, etc.) Woolums and Vran fixed some rope got to top at 3:45 pm and on descent at 4:20 pm met Howes and Corvini moving slowly upwards at 400m below summit. 1st party to C2 at 9 pm while 2nd party on up about 50m and then bivouacked out of wind in small hole; went to top [next day] at 12:10-12:25 pm at 15 degrees centigrade and 50-knot gusts of wind and down to C2 at 10:00 pm. Corvini dropped the rope. Corvini developed frostbite over next few days having failed to remove his 4 pairs of socks for days.

Route has no great technical difficulties, but people die on it because they make their last camps too low.