원정 개요

Near lake normal BC site
C1 just across West Col from east side
C2 near start of SE Ridge.

The team went to Lobuche East to acclimatize and all summited it on 21 October. Then they went for their Baruntse BC. They intended to cross Amphu Lepcha pass, but there was too much snow in the pass, so from Chhukung they flew by helicopter to BC on the 23rd and rested there for a few days.

C1 and C2 were placed at just over the West Col on its east side and near the foot of the SE Ridge, respectively. C1 was not pitched on the ridge because on the ridge there was unstable snow and very strong wind. The team returned to BC the same day as they pitched C2.

They returned to the attack and slept here in C1 on 3 November. They were in C2 on the 4th, and on the 5th they went for the top. On the 5th the three members and Pemba Nuru left C2 at 2:00 am in clouds; the previous night there was strong wind, but it stopped blowing on the morning of the 5th. The SE Ridge was very steep and covered by snow, but they managed to climb it to the summit, where they arrived at 10:00 am in strong wind. The huge crevasse that had plagued expeditions in former years was not an obstacle now, and they descended all the way to BC the same day.

Sherpa:
Pemba Nuru, 27/11/80, Khumjung