한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Manaslu 2014 UNA Pala

Manaslu · 2014 · 가을 (3) · Spain

원정 개요

BC 08/09 4800m
C1 10/09 5800m
C2 13/09 6400m
C3 15/09 6800m
C4 29/09 7400m
Smt 30/09 by Carvajal Rodriguez and Fernandez Vivancos at 10 am,
Saldana Rodriguez and Velez Ruiz 11:30 am.

When summit team arrived at C4, they had to sleep in somebody else's tent due to the fact that Saldana had lost their tent on the ascent (it fell out of his rucksack). On 30 Sept, they left C4 at 3 am. Weather was good. On the ascent there were no complications. Carvajal and Fernandez were the first to summit and waited for the others to arrive on the top. During this time Carvajal got very cold feet. Once everyone was on the top they descended to C4 at about 12 noon.

When they arrived at C4 at 2 pm they first could not find a tent to sleep in; however, they did not want to descend any further as the team was very tired. When they found a shovel, they started digging and found two very small tents, where they camped in for the night. It was very uncomfortable and they could not really sleep. At C4 Carvajal noticed that he had frostbite on both feet and Saldana realized that he had frostbite on both hands.

On 1 Oct, the summit team descended to C3. On his way down, Velez Ruiz took a fall on the fixed ropes and hurt his knee at about 7200m. He could hardly walk and the others had to help him down to C3, where they arrived at 11 am. On 2 Oct Carvajal, who was suffering from frostbite, descended to BC carrying some of their gear while Fernandez, Saldana and Velez stayed at C3 for another night as they were waiting for a helicopter rescue for Velez Ruiz. On 3 Oct the helicopter arrived and first evacuated Velez Ruiz from C3 and then Carvajal from BC as his frostbite was getting worse. Fernandez and Saldana descended to BC by foot and flew out of BC by helicopter on 4 Oct.

Real Sanchez reached about 7000m on 29 Sept. He did not continue as he was not feeling well.

Garcia Lorente reached 7000m on 18 Sept. He did not get on with one of the team members and decided to leave the expedition. He left 26 Sept and walked out via the Larkya La.

Merchan Cotos reached 6200m 14 Sept. He did not acclimatize well and abandoned his climb. He left the expedition on 26 Sept and walked out via the Larkya La together with Garcia Lorente.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

  • 내부 원정 ID8568
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA14305
  • 대장Borja Real Sanchez
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도8163m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Borja Real SanchezSpainLeader---
Carlos Javier Carvajal RodriguezSpainClimber성공--
Fernando Jose Fernandez-Vivancos FernandezSpainClimber성공--
Miguel Angel Garcia LorenteSpainClimber---
Rafael Merchan CotosSpainClimber---
Jose Francisco (Pepe) Saldana RodriguezSpainClimber성공--
Antonio Jesus Velez RuizSpainClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

http://www.expenews.com/es/expeditions/368/dispatches/5554 · 2014 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.expenews.com/es/expeditions/368/team · 2014 · 웹사이트 (5) ·