원정 개요

BC at moraine near junction Gyabrag and Palung Glacier
C1 at Palung Glacier
C2 at bottom of N Face (bergschrund, ice hole)
C3 on North Face
C4 on North Face.

Long approach and difficult from BC to C1. C2 to C3 and above C4 to top most difficult with no place to put C3 lower. Some parts 55-60 degrees, avalanche 45+ degrees. Mostly snow and ice face. C3 to C4 very bad snow condition (powder snow with thin ice crust). Couloir from 7800m to 8150m of rock slabs covered with ice and snow - no avalanching. Some seracs between C3 to C4 but did not fall in very cold weather (C1 -25 degrees early morning) with 1 hour direct sun on face. Very windy on top but generally no wind on face. Fixed rope from C2 to C3; 1700m fixed.

On 2 Nov Tomazin alone from C3 to top and down Tichy route in unprepared descent to 6000m where met Skarja at 2:00 am on 3 Nov. All 3 returned to BC 7 am.

3 Nov Groselj and Rozman made C4 4 Nov wind and snowfall kept them in C4 and 5 Nov to top via small traverse to Tichy route and descended same way.

8 Nov Nadvesnik and Prezelj from C4 direct to top via couloir and descended couloir to C1 and C2, respectively.

9 Nov Jereb and Robas from C4 to top via small traverse of 5 Nov and down to C2.

Left BC 14th Nov. 5th degree average difficulty (French TD - tres difficult like classical north face route in Alps). One of last great Himalayan faces. Couloir is about vertical 300m high, starting from 7850m; last 10m is 90-degree rock.