원정 개요

The two Russian alpinists started their summit bid from Monjo on 24 April. They spent night at 5000m at west of Kusum Kangaru. On 26 April they spent night at 5450m and on 28 April at 5650m. Subsequently, on 29th at 5900m, on 30th at 6200m, on 1 May at 6500m and on 2 May at 6600m.

They summited on 3 May and stayed on the summit for 40 minutes. They returned at top camp at 6600m at 7:20 am in bad weather. Visibility was so poor they find difficulty to find the way down. Then the climbers traversed from 6600m at 8 am down to South Ridge (6100m); the ridge was sharp and they had to abseil 400m vertical. They arrived (6100m) at 5 pm and slept there. Next day, 4 May the climbers started moving down at 7 am, vertical abseil to bottom of the mountain face where they reached at 8 pm. On 5 May they started moving down at 8 am to Monjo where they arrived at 6 pm. Weather condition, in general morning was good but in the afternoon most of the day snow fall, cloudy and windy. Summit day weather was good. Gukov and Lonchinskiy used a light tent bag without poles. It could be used as a bag.