원정 개요

C2 near Naike Col.

Spent many days at BC 1st week of Oct because of heavy snowfall and much avalanching; were two attempts in this period but got no higher than C3. Finally in successful attack made C4 on 23 Oct, biv on 24th and top on 25th. 1st attack ended where 3 Sherpas and 1 member carried 300m by avalanche on 3rd Oct but not injured (hit at 6800m). During avalanche period many crevasses filled so very dangerous because could not see crevasses between C1 and C2. Camps carried away but tents at C2 and C3 broken by weight of deep snow. No other summit attack after 25 Oct because health not so good and only 3 real climbers left. After failure of 1st attack many members went home (all of Lopez group left 8 Oct with Soler i Dies and Gonzalez and all but 1 Sherpa who had conflict with other Sherpas). Not technically difficult climb, says Agullo, but altitude is problem.