원정 개요

BC 15 Apr - 5600m
C1 17 Apr - 6100m
C2 15 May - 6900m
C3 17 May - 7300m
C4 not used this year due to seracs fall danger
HPt 18 May - 8400m (altimeter 8330m) by Confortola
Smt 18 May by Camandona at 11:30 am.

Confortola did 3 sleeps for acclimatization, 1 night in C1 and 2 nights in C2. None of the members used traditional C1 on top of the hump, being too small this year, but a further lower C1 in the core of the basin at the footsteop of the upper icefall. On summit push, all members would directly reach C2 from BC, with no stay at C1.

Team waited 2 nights at C2 for the wind to decrease.

Camandona started at 8 pm on 17 May, reaching summit at 11:30 am, then reached C3 at 8 pm, then C2 the same day.

Confortola started at 7 pm on 17 May, reaching 8400m at 11 am as his high point. Here due to pain in the right chest area and frozen feet (due to former frostbites of all toes of feet) had to go down, reached C3 along with Camandona at 8 pm and stayed there for night.

Cazzanelli and Favre started same as Confortola, stopped on 18 May at 7800m and 7700m respectively because of lack of experience (felt cold and tired). Both went down to C2 same day for sleeping. On 19 May all members were back to BC.

Confortola mentions that he could see one of the dead bodies of Spring 2013 laying on the right side of the corridor before the traverse at around 7800m (was in fact body of Phu Dorchi found around 8150m). Otherwise that Kangchenjunga is a very long way on summit day compared to C2; starts from 7950m on K2 shoulder whereas here it starts from 7300m. He hired a Sherpa otherwise to help him at camps to manage his feet, whose toes were all cut after K2 climb.

Team had problems otherwise with porters, some gear being stolen in the tents; otherwise with the agency, evacuation of the photographer suffering from a lung edema being not efficiently managed by the agency, not sending the helicopter during 3 days of beautiful weather.

Marco Confortola had bad fall at BC before starting for summit, hurting one of his right ribs; Dr Carols Martinez from Carlos Soria's team diagnosed him afterwards with a muscle tear with blood flowing from rib with pain suddenly appearing below summit.

Sherpa:
Pasang Lama Bhote, 2/12/1984, Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun