원정 개요

Fixed rope: 6000m shared with other expedition.

For acclimatization, slept in C1 and had to go and return to C2 without sleeping.

On 15 and 16 May, had to wait 2 nights in C2 for wind to decrease. Then started for the summit on 17 May at 8 pm from C3, climbed all night to reach summit next day at 9 am in a clear day with no wind (temperature however estimated as -30 degrees C). Stayed there 15 minutes knowing the descent would be difficult (with no fixed rope for the last traverse from 8200m) and eventually reached C3 the same day at 6:30 pm. On 19 May reached BC at 5 pm.

Previously on 17 May, Sherpas had fixed the rope until 8000m; they started earlier than the team on the summit day, fixing remaining rope from 8000m at the beginning of the traverse.

Carlos Soria says: "The last 250m were very difficult to climb down, more difficult than on K2, where its more dangerous due to the bottle serac but where 50m only are difficult to down climb." However the team mentioned as well that the small blocks of the area are not so solid, so tried to hurry in the descent to avoid stone fall due to coming remnant of climbers.

As usual, avoided brown chimney by a few meters down; found in the chimney some remnants of old black thin ropes, in a doubtful security state, as the other beats found here and there in this final area.

Fixed rope: 6000m shared with other expeditions

Sherpa summiters:
Muktu Sherpa, 21/8/1972, Makalu-5 Sankhuwasabha
Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/1979, Jubing-1, Solukhumbu
Pasang Temba Sherpa, 20/1/1983, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha

Sherpas who fixed ropes to 8200m:
Pasang Tenji Sherpa, 25/2/1988, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
Pema Nuru Sherpa, 16/2/1973, Jubing-1, Kharikhola

Sherpas up to C3:
Mingma Sherpa, 12/2/1982, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha
Karma Sherpa, 11/5/1990, Jubing-1, Kharikhola
Norbu Sherpa, 24/8/1973, Makalu-5, Sankhuwasabha