원정 개요

C1 at 5500m on the N Shoulder
C2 at 6000m on the N Shoulder.

The team had a good acclimatization, the route looked really nice and clear, but on the 9 May, the strongest member of the team, Leonid Rokhinson, had an accident just 50m above C2 (where the team aimed to sleep that day) at 6050m: he fell in a crevasse, injuring his chin with a lot of blood but conscious. He could go on his own down to BC (Olek believes he was hit by one of his ski poles during the fall). As none of Olek or Lev had any medical experience to repair this bad deep cut (a few centimeters deep) they decided to call for an helicopter rescue which happened on 10 May. Even in Kathmandu doctors couldn't deal with an injury they had ever seen before, just kept it open. Leonid flew back to USA for further care on the 17 May.

Both members remaining didn't feel confident enough to go on their own, so they used a couple of days to remove the camps and tents. On 11 May the duo climbed 100m again above C2 as Lev Ioffe wanted to see the route.

Denisenko reports otherwise that there were 2 other teams than theirs in the surrounding, including one international team (UK, Europeans) on a higher peak nearby theirs, using 1 Sherpa for 1 client, with the Sherpas doing everything. This team told them weather was very windy (what he agrees with) and they reached the top, but Sherpas themselves said they didn't get to the top.