원정 개요

Initially planned NE Couloir of the NE Shoulder of Everest. But conditions just too dry for an alpine-style ascent: low part was in blue ice, center too rocky (risk of falling rock) and the final part presented a thick layer of fresh snow posed on blue ice. In these conditions would have meant a slow ascent, fixing ropes to secure their progress.

So they decided instead to go on the normal route for an alpine-style ascent. Whilst going up with the other teams, on the 24 May they considered the wind was too strong, so they would have no chance to climb without oxygen, being too cold.

Peter Hamor first saw the NE Couloir route in 1998 during a national expedition to Everest N Ridge. Back at that time he felt attracted by the direct logical line, but couldn't try it as he had to obey the rules of the large expedition.